Randonée de Faucogney-et-la-Mer

Monday 2 September 2024

Nido's parked up on a Municipal Campsite in the village of Pays-de-Clerval.  Our pitch overlooks the river Doubs.  It's a busy and popular campsite and decent value at €13.90 including EHU (and €1.50 for Salty - not sure what he gets for that though!).  After our exertions of yesterday we haven't done much today - more of that below.

We decided to stay on another day at Faucogney-et-la- Mer.  Although we walked to the fête last night, we didn't explore the old fortified village.  We also fancied a bit of a walk, despite the heat.  So before breakfast in the cool of the early morning we walked around the village, wandering down some of the narrow, empty streets.  I checked out a couple of circular walks on the tourist noticeboard and we bought a baguette for breakfast.  Back at the van the area around the football pitch and clubhouse was busy.  The BBQ was already lit and walkers were turning up, registering and heading off on one of two walks (randonées) - 10km and 20km, starting and finishing at this location.  

We'd decided on a walk that would take us up through the forest to St Martin's church, we we could see high up on the ridge above the trees. With a bottle of water and a few snacks we headed off, turning right out of the aire.  The marshall in a high-vis jacket wished us good morning and only as we walked down the road and turned off to enter the forest did we realise we were following the same route as the community randonée, marked by large chalk arrows on the ground and hazard tape tied to the trees.  We decided following their route would be a lot less stressful than trying to navigate our own, so we joined the walkers as we weaved our way steeply up the hillside through ancient deciduous forest.  The 10k route took us up and down hills, along tracks and roads, through ancient forest and past the many lakes and ponds of Le Plateau des Milles Étangs (Land of a thousand lakes).  These were formed as the last ice age receded and now make up a large area of water, swamps and peat lands.  The area is also known as 'Little Finland' as the many water spots and terrain are similar.  We walked past about thirty in total and I'm glad we did, as they're very hard to spot from the road and many are privately owned so out of bounds.  Near the end of the route, we reached a high viewpoint looking down the valley, down over the village and the aire with a tiny Nido to our left; I could just make out the woodsmoke from the BBQ!  The worst section was the descent from there back into the village, down a steep, stony and very slippery path.

I'll take this muddy puddle over a clean stream any day!

Looking down on the aire

A very tired pooch!

By the end us and the pooch were completely knackered, but satisfied with our effort.  I have to say 'Chapeau' to the many French septuagenarians who fairly skipped up, down and around the route and returned to party hard at the outside bar and BBQ next to us!  They must make 'em tough around these parts - acclimatised to the hot, humid summer, yet able to cope with the cold, severe winters.  The party wrapped up about 8pm and we were soon all ready for a good long sleep.

It rained in the night, a steady rain for about a couple of hours, so it was a slightly fresher start to this morning.  We stopped in Lure to buy food and fill the LPG tanks before driving to a Camping Car Park site in Mandeure.  We serviced the van and tried to use our CCP card to enter, having first walked around to find a suitable pitch.  However it turns out this particular site needs to be pre-booked, not something I've come across before.  I tried this on their app, but I would have to purchase a 'Privilege Pack' to allow me to do this at an additional cost of €29, which I didn't want to do.  So we turned around and came to this campsite.

By now it was quite hot, so sat in the shade for lunch before taking a short walk along the river.  Dinner was a vegetable paella and, as we're on electric hook-up, all the things are on charge and we had a bit of a YouTube catch up at the end of the evening.  There's quite a few mozzies about, so we've had to shut the door and put the fly screens over the skylights.  

Tomorrow we head further south towards the Jura region and hopefully some wild swimming.  Nearly every where we've been the past few days forbids swimming in the lakes and rivers and we're desperate for a swim in some cool water.

Two nights in Val-et-Châtillon

Thursday 29 August 2024

Nido's parked up at on an aire in the small village of Val-et-Châtillon.  There's not much here except for a sawmill, a textiles museum (think northern England cotton mill) and a bus stop.  Sadly, like many villages - not just in France - there's nothing to keep young people and families here, so they move away and the shops and schools close.

  

We had a very peaceful night in Walschied and the drive here yesterday was not too long, through forests and hairpin roads.  I was surprised to see only one van here as it's such a lovely aire. It's free with the service point costing €3.50.  The five pitches are large, flat and bordered with hedges giving plenty of privacy.  I reversed into a pitch that gave us plenty of tree shade, yet enough sunshine to charge up the leisure battery from the solar panel.  After a quick cup of tea, we headed off on a marked walk that took us past the textiles museum and sawmill and into the cool forest.  Although not a long walk, it was interesting as it took in a lake at the end of the village and back along a clear, babbling stream to a small waterfall.  Both Salty and Cathy had a quick cooling dip before we returned to spend the afternoon sat outside in the shade reading.  I cooked some sausages and Cathy had earlier made a lovely tomato, onion, garlic and chilli salad (chillies from our greenhouse), eaten with a baguette we bought on the way in.  In the still heat of the evening, we took a walk around the village, saying "Bonsoir" to the locals as they chatted outside; a lovely atmosphere here.

It was a hot night be gradually cooled down and was lovely when I took Salty out for his morning walk.  I'd set my alarm for 0700 as the bread van visits the village - parking outside the Marie - between 0730 and 0745 and I didn't want to miss it!  Armed with a 'tradition' baguette and two croissants as big as my head I breakfasted and prepared for a bike ride.  Pedalling off at 0900 it was quite cool as I cycled up the hills through the forest towards Saint Saveur.  Out the other side, I was on the ridge and in full sunshine, so was already feeling the heat of the day.  My route took me through forests and fields, past villages and farms, a total of 2 hours.  I'd hopped to find a café but the only one on Google Maps was closed!  I did manage to find an ATM though, but it spat out a €50 note which, for anyone who visits the EU knows, shops are reluctant to accept.  Maybe the supermarkets will take it?  Back at the van the temperature was rising and it peaked at 33'C later in the afternoon, so we went for a very cooling dip in the stream - it was wonderful!

It almost takes as long to get the bike back on the rack, secured and covered as it does to ride it!

Good news - I've fixed the Cadac BBQ!  After my bike ride I took out the Cadac to try and measure what size grub screw I needed to look for in the local DIY shops.  When I picked the main body I heard something rattle; a few minutes with a tiny screwdriver and tweezers and I'd extracted the grub screw and refitted it.  So the Cadac was used to cook tonight's supper, keeping the heat outside the van.

It's another calm but warm evening. The sun has set behind the trees and we're sat outside making the most of the cooler air.

Celtic Camp and tree felling

Saturday 31 August 2024 

Nido's parked up at a free aire in the village of Faucogney-et-la-Mer in the Haute-Saône department.  It's within the Plateau des Milles Étangs (Land of a 1000 Lakes) formed when the last ice age receded, leaving many small lakes, swamps and peatland.  

 It's been a hot day so we haven't done too much especially after our exertions yesterday. I'm sat outside the van watching the bats fly around and hoping the van cools down a little more before bedtime! I can here the accordion music from the village fête, which looked good fun when we took our evening walk. I was up early yesterday morning to walk Salty then up the road to buy a baguette from the bread van. A quick van service and we hit the road and drove to the next village for a bit of food shopping, before driving to our overnight spot - a free park up at Col de Crénée. I found this on Park4Night after checking out a place to walk to. I've not had a great deal of success with P4N; many of the stops seem to be road lay-bys or just not a nice place to stop. But occasionally it throughs up a good one - this was one of them. It's a stony car park surrounded by trees at an altitude of 550m. The last 4km are up a single track road with only a couple of passing places, so I wanted to get up here early to avoid any oncoming traffic. 

There were a few cars when we arrived, but we still had plenty of space to park up and have breakfast. Our first walk of the day was about 25 minutes to the Camp Celtique de la Bure. The Celtic camp belongs to a network of high-altitude sites: Pierre d'Appel (Etival-Clairefontaine), le Chazeté (Taintrux), Warrinchâtel (Saint Rémy) and la Corre (Housseras). Overlooking the Meurthe valley, the site consists of a barred spur, naturally fortified, whose defensive character was reinforced from the 2nd century BC by a series of fortified works (including a murus gallicus). Covering an area of ​​3 hectares, the site was the subject of multiple excavations, which discovered remains of craft activities (forge work, stone extraction, etc.), agricultural and religious activities (sculpted representations of several divinities linked to the cults of Diana, Jupiter and Mercury) as well as more than a thousand coins (Gallic and Roman) testifying to significant exchanges. We spent at least an hour walking around the site, reading the noticeboards and taking in the magnificent views. We had the place all to ourselves and it was easy to imagine the sights, sounds and smells of what would have been a thriving community. 

Back at the van we had a cup of tea with a lovely piece of black forest gateau I bought on the journey here. By now the car park was quite empty as the heat of the day kicked in. Our second walk of the day was following a circular route called Les Routes des Trois Fontaines (the route of the three springs). It took us downhill through the forest. The first spring was trickling and the second was dry! The walk was longer than expected and by the time we reached the third spring - the aptly named Fountaine de la Coeur (see photo) we were delighted to find a heart-shaped bowl filled with refreshingly cool clear spring water. Heads were dunked and necks were wetted! It only took about ten minutes to return to the van and after cool showers we had the place to ourselves. We were famished after our too long walks in very hot and humid weather, so supper was wolfed down in no time. I wonder if there are wolves here..... As the sun set and the darkness fell we sat outside and listened to the cicadas, watching the sky turn purple then black as millions of stars appeared above us in the gap in the forest canopy. 

Tea and gateau being prepared as Salty stands guard

We didn't sleep to well as it was so hot. I actually made up a bed on the floor and was cooler there. Salty preferred it too and laid across my legs, making me even hotter! I did drop off to sleep but about 0500 a large lorry with one of those huge machines that cuts down and strips large trees turned up and parked next to us. For the next couple of hours it moved up and down the forest tracks, stacking the huge tree trunks on the other side of the car park. I guess he makes an early start to get the job done before the hikers arrive, so it made sense. We were therefore up and out walking Salty by 0700, moving up the forested hillside for about 20 minutes until we reached a large rock and cliff face with views down into the valley. Breakfasted and packed up, we drove back down the single track road, luckily meeting nothing coming up. 

After a food re-provision and van service, we arrived at this aire. It's split across two areas next to the football pitch and we managed to get a spot on the end in the shade of a tree with grass next to us. The village sits in a valley by a river and all around are hills covered in pine trees. As it was so hot we had a lazy afternoon. I took Salty for a walk and found a clear stream that allowed him to plonk in and cool down. We walked down into the village later to take a nosy at the houses and gardens (our favourite pastime!) and took a quick wander around the fête. The locals were all sat at long trestle tables tucking in to food; it's probably open to all comers but our French isn't strong and we were much to shy to ask! So we returned to the van and sat outside with a few snacks as it was still too hot to eat a cooked meal. I suspect I'll be sleeping on the floor again tonight. I'm not in the doghouse (although it is where Salty normally lays down!) but it is cooler for both of us. Tomorrow I may seek out a municipal campsite so we can avoid travelling for a couple of days until the temperature cools a little.

Into the Moselle region and heading for the mountains of the Vosges

 Tuesday 27 August 2024

Nido's parked up at an aire next to the swimming lake in the beautiful mountain village of Walscheid, in the Moselle department.  It's proper dark outside and completely silent; the sunbathers and swimmers have left, as have the pétanque players. It's still very warm and we're sat here with the door open and a cup of tea and a shared Mille Feuille! It's a free aire although jetons for the services need to be bought in the village shops.

Yesterday morning I didn't wake until 0930, so it wasn't until about 1100 that I cycled out of the aire.  The route to the medieval village of Hattonchâtel was up a steep hill with several hairpins but, despite my lack of fitness (and age!) I got up there without too much difficulty. I stopped there to admire the view from the balcony next to the Marie, which overlooked the plain towards the lake and onwards to Butte de Montsec, a World War I monument located on an isolated hill. It commemorates the achievements of the American soldiers who fought in this region in 1917 and 1918 and dominates the landscape for miles around. It honours the US First Army, 12 - 16 September 1918, and the US Second Army, 9 - 11 November. It was a strategic viewpoint during the war as it overlooked all the trenches of the battlegrounds laid out before it.  I can just imagine the Generals stood there with a glass of champagne, looking down at the hundreds of thousands of soldiers walking into the machine gun fire and their imminent death.

Back to Hattonchâtel, it's located on a rocky promontory and was fortified in the ninth century by Hatton, Bishop of Verdun, who gave the village its name. The citadel was destroyed in 1634 by order of Richelieu. Miss Belle Skinner, an American benefactor, helped to restore the architectural heritage damaged during the First World War. The chateau, rebuilt in 1923, is now a luxury hotel.  Obviously not as luxurious as our campervan and certainly more expensive to stay in!

I followed the road out of the village, heading through forests and small hamlets, stopping occasionally to soak up the atmosphere, check my map and take a drink of water on a hot, still day. In all I covered 43km and returned to the van for a cold coke and some lunch.  

Later we went for a swim in the lake.  It was much quieter today, being a Monday, so we stayed a little longer before returning to the van for dinner.  Later, as the sun was starting to set over the lake, we walked Salty along the water's edge, watching the dragonflies and (all too few) birds flitting over the surface of the water to hoover up the insects.

The service point just outside the aire this morning had a long queue.  It's a Flot Bleu, which isn't my favourite as the toilet emptying point and fresh water tap are both squeezed into a small locker - blurgh!  On our journey I spotted an aire sign in a village so we pulled in and were able to empty the tanks and refill for just €2.  After a food and fuel replenishment in Pont à Musson, we carried on and pulled off in a small village to have lunch in the shade of some trees by a chalk stream.  

Perfect lunch spot

It was a hot afternoon, so we were glad to reach the aire next to the municipal campsite in the ancient pilgrimage village of Saint Quirin.  We took Salty for a walk in the shade of the forest and returned for a cup of tea.  I wandered down to check out the notices and saw that this is no longer a free aire, but to stay we would have to pay the same rate as the campsite.  As we'd just spend two nights in one place we decided to move on and drove the 15 minutes to this lovely village of Walscheid. 

As I drove in it had a lovely relaxed atmosphere so I knew we'd enjoy our stay. Dinner was eaten at one the picnic tables by the lake in the still of the warm evening as the sun set behind us - idyllic.  As darkness began to fall we took a walk around part of the village and the lake, picking out which of the lovely swiss-type chalet houses we'd have if we won the lottery!

Highland Coos?

I need to do a bit of research to see where we head next.  It would be nice to stay in one area and explore it a bit more, so I'll plan on that as I check out our guide books and apps.

Thunderstorm and our first swim

Sunday 25 August 2024

Nido's parked up on an aire in Nonsard-Lamarche by the north east shore of Lac de Madine.  This man made lake - 20km in circumference - forms a vast outdoor leisure park offering water sports and other activities.  It has the usual supervised swimming beach but plenty of places to get away from the busier areas.  The aire's on a large area of grass amongst mature Balsam Poplar trees and we were able to just pick our place.  It's €7 per night (no facilities) but if you need electric and toilets, there's an adjacent aire behind a barrier that charges €14 per night.  As we serviced the van before leaving we're full of fresh water, this is ideal for us.  We're staying for a couple of nights to enjoy swimming in the lake and have a day off travelling.

Leaving Raucourt-et-Flaba yesterday, we drove to the Le Clerc in Verdun to top up with food. Although a Saturday, the city roads were relatively quiet, so the drive in wasn't too stressful, plus of course Google Maps makes it much easier to find these places. Verdun is infamous for the terrible Battle of Verdun, which took place all around the town between February and December 1916.  The German offensive took the French by surprise and in the opening days over 2 million artillery shells were fired.  There followed several more offensives over the coming months involving several million soldiers and causing the death of 377,000 Frenchmen as well as over 14,000 American soldiers, plus of course the 330,000 German lives lost.  The whole area is surrounded by the battlefields, many of which can be visited (along with their museums and memorials) and the countryside is peppered with far too many military cemeteries.  The Ossaire de Douaumont holds the unidentified remains of over 130,000 French and German soldiers - enemies in life, united in death; a sobering thought in these uncertain times.

Our next park up was on an aire in the village of Dieue-Sur-Meuse, comprising ten parking spots on grass alongside the canal.  After a grey and damp day before, the temperature had risen markedly, with thunderstorms forecast for the evening.  So we were glad to find a spot we could reverse into, right next to the shade of a tree.  As it was so hot - 34'C at its peak - we spent the afternoon reading in the shade.  About 6pm we took Salty for a walk along the canal.  The water was very clear so we could see the bottom, weeds and shoals of small fish.  As we walked the skies darkened ahead of us and at the turn around point, we could see the lightning and hear the thunder as it approached.  We only just made it back to the van before the dark skies rolled above us, the winds increased to gale force and the heavy rain started to lash down.  It was very warm inside but we couldn't open the windows or skylights due to the storm.  It continued on and off until about midnight, although I did manage to take Salty out for a short walk in between the rain showers.  By then the temperature had cooled so we both enjoyed a pleasant mooch long the canal until the rain started again!

Overnight the temperature dropped by about 14'C and this morning's dog walk was pleasantly cool.  I went in search of the boulangerie for our lunchtime baguette, which I eventually found on the main road.  After breakfast we had a walk around the old village and returned to find we'd missed the lady from the adjacent Tourist Office who had come around to collect the €5 payment.  She'd left an envelope of tourist leaflets under the windscreen wiper, so I used this to place our money - with a note of thanks - and posted it through the Tourist Office letterbox.  In addition to the €5, there's a 0.55c per person Tourist Tax.  This goes towards covering the costs of the commune providing services to tourists and we're very happy to pay it.  There's been a lot of fuss about Wales introducing a similar tax, but living in a tourist area, we know the strain lots of visitors can place on the local community, so see no reason why they shouldn't contribute to the cost of providing services such as toilets, waste disposal etc.

The drive to Lac de Madine was only forty minutes, mostly along a minor road through a huge deciduous forest. We took our time, noting the trees and branches that came down in last night's storm had already been cut up and cleared away from the road that stretched for over 15km through the forest.

After picking our park up spot, we took a walk to check out the lake and the swimming areas. Salty had a cooling dip while we looked on enviously!  The water felt warm to the touch so we banked this for later and walked around some of the lake before returning via a different inland track.  Lunch, chilling out and reading followed before Cathy and I walked back to the lake for our own swim.  The water was indeed quite warm and we enjoyed swimming and floating about for about 20 minutes.  It was quite busy with families enjoying their day but this just added to the holiday atmosphere.  Dinner was eaten outside. I had planned to cook outside on the Cadac BBQ, but when putting it together discovered that the grub screw that holds in the control spindle had fallen out and was missing.  I've emailed Cadac to find out what size it is so I can buy a replacement.

The exhausting life of a washer woman

As the sun was setting we walked around the village, watching the swallows diving about in the sky and nearly jumping out of our skins as we passed the church and the bells rang out!  It's very quiet here now all the day visitors have left; the aire has also emptied out by at least half.  I'm planning a bike ride tomorrow to visit a medieval village (with a café stop if I'm lucky), then hopefully we'll get another swim in the afternoon.  At least it's cool tonight so we should sleep better than last night, when we had the fan blowing cooling air over us for most of the night.